Wander Where Nxt

Wandering Through Northern Vietnam: A Journey Across Hanoi, Sapa, Ninh Binh, & Cat Ba Island.

There’s something magnetic about northern Vietnam – the scent of sizzling street food, the buzz of motorbikes, the mist that clings to the mountains at sunrise. I didn’t know exactly what I was looking for when I booked a trip across Northern Vietnam, but what I found was a mosaic of culture, chaos, peace, and breathtaking landscapes. From the electric energy of Hanoi to the serene waters of Cat Ba Island, this journey offered a bit of everything – perfect for solo travelers or even families looking for variety.

Let me take you through the four stops that captured my heart: Hanoi, Sapa, Ninh Binh, and Cat Ba Island.

Hanoi: The Soul of Vietnam

The moment I stepped into Hanoi’s Old Quarter, I was swept up in a sensory storm. The streets buzzed with a thousand motorbikes weaving past me like a choreographed dance. Vendors called out in Vietnamese, balancing baskets of fruit and banh mi. The air was thick with the aroma of grilled pork and gasoline.

Despite the chaos, there’s an undeniable rhythm to Hanoi. I wandered through alleys and stumbled upon ancient temples hidden between shops. I not only sipped creamy egg coffee in a colorful cafe overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake, and in the afternoon, I also watched a train thunder past me at Train Street – only a foot away from my table!

Travel tips:

Sapa: Misty Mountains and Ethnic Encounters

Sapa is where Vietnam slows down. I took a sleeper bus from Hanoi, arriving late evening to rolling fog and towering peaks. All of a sudden, the air was cooler, the silence refreshing. I stayed in a local hotel, Viettrekking Sapa, overlooking the valley below.

Here, I had booked a day trek to leave the city and visit the pristine villages of the indigenous H’mong people. We explored Ta Van, Lao Chai, and Y Linh Ho villages. Each village has its own unique culture and language, which is evident in the traditional garments worn by the people. We ended this trekking adventure with food at a local restaurant. It was so special to experience these villages with a guide who resides there.

Day two began with breakfast at the hotel, following the best coffee at the coffee shop! I was lucky to get about 10 minutes of sunshine to part the clouds and see the valley below. This quickly ended and we were off to catch a train to Fansipan – the highest peak in all of Indochina.

I was fortunate enough to have the same guide from the previous day to take us up to the peak! Fansipan sits at an altitude of 3143m and there are opportunities to trek the highest mountain in Vietnam. I did choose the easier route of taking the cable car, since I had a toddler tagging along!

Once you reach the entrance, there are temples to explore on the lower level. You then get to decide if you want to climb 600 steps to the highest part of the mountain or take a train to the top for an additional cost. Unfortunately, the entire time we were on the mountain the clouds were thick resulting in us having zero visibility. It was a great experience, but this is a common issue that I was not prepared for!

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Ninh Binh: The “Halong Bay on Land”

If Sapa was about the mountains, Ninh Binh was about tranquility. I arrived by taxi and stayed overnight at An’s Eco Garden near Trang An. This stay was secluded, surrounded by limestone cliffs and lush paddies. They offered bikes to ride around the countryside, as well as motorbike rentals if you have an international license.

That evening, I took a small wooden boat through Trang An, where a local woman rowed us gently through caves and under overhangs. The stillness was profound. The tour lasts about 4 hours in total, rowing through low hanging caves only lit by lanterns and stopping to explore ancient temples along the way. I would recommend starting this journey no later than 3 pm – I started at 4 pm and the last hour was in the dark. Although it was a unique experience, it was challenging to see the last temple!

In the morning, I headed directly to Hang Mua to beat the crowds of visitors coming for a day trip from Hanoi. Here, I climbed hundreds of stone steps, and was rewarded with a view that made my legs forget the work it took to get there. The stairway splits about halfway up and goes to two different points. You cannot go wrong with either, or if you have time to do both – do it! Overlooking the limestone cliffs emerging through the waterways below, you can see the row boats making their way along their path. It is truly a breathtaking view that you will never forget!

Travel tips:

Cat Ba Island: A Peaceful Halong Bay Alternative

Rather than braving the tourist crowds of Halong City, I took a bus-boat combo to Cat Ba Island. It felt like a secret escape. The town had a laid-back vibe, with small seafood restaurants lining the harbor and quiet beaches just a scooter ride away.

I stayed on the southern end of the island at Hotel Perle d’Orient Cat Ba. This amazing 5-star hotel was a luxurious splurge to end the trip! The staff was amazing, they have multiple restaurants on site, as well as a rooftop spa.

But the real magic happened on the water. I booked a private day trip through Lan Ha Bay with Cat Ba Local – kayaking through limestone cliffs, swimming in hidden coves, spotting rare monkeys in trees, and being welcomed to a home in the local fishing village to learn more about their way of life!

Cai Beo Fishing Village is a must if you want to truly immerse yourself in the local culture! The guide grew up in the village and was kind enough to take us to his aunt’s home on the water. I carefully walked the planks between the groups of fish being grown for the market. The homes are modest but have electricity and a kitchen. Some families grow fruits and veggies in plastic barrels over the water. Others have dogs or cats as well!

This village is shrinking – from over 600 families in 2018 to now only 130. Only native islanders can own homes on the water, but they are able to rent them out to other families who are not local. The villages have been moved to one location off the island, due to a previous problem with pollution.

This destination is a superior alternative to Halong Bay, as it is quieter and more authentic. I would suggest skipping the Halong Bay cruise and opt for this more sustainable and authentic choice. You are also able to stay in a floating home, which is something I will be returning to experience!

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Final Thoughts

Northern Vietnam surprised me. It’s a place where ancient traditions live beside rapid modern growth, where kindness is shown in shared meals and patient smiles, and where each destination has its own rhythm.

Sure, there were hiccups – language barriers, sudden downpours, forgetting cash. But none of that overshadowed the beauty and warmth I experienced. If you’re thinking of venturing to Vietnam, go beyond the usual tourist trails! Whether you’re wandering solo or bringing your family along, Northern Vietnam offers a rich, unforgettable adventure.